What's that about foreskin?

This is from The Forward's review of Shalom Auslander's memoir, "Foreskin's Lament":

Consider the poor foreskin: an object of desire for a few, a matter of indifference for many and anathema to the Jews. Like bacon and lobster, it serves as the very definition of treyf. Its rejection is the primordial sign of the Covenant.

Well, I can tell you what I'll never be eating again. (Please, no stomach-turning, painfully obvious jokes.)